The engine grunts but nothing cycles
The engine is heard to force without the piston leaving: the replica blocked or too weak to arm.
- Verifications
- 5
- Until
- Dismantling
- Tools
- 2
Symptoms
- Grunting or buzzing at relaxation, no shooting
- A first shot starts, then the replica blocks
- The battery or engine warms quickly
Causes
Most common to rare.
- Battery too weak to arm spring (definition)Common
- Engine height not adjustedCommon
- Too powerful spring for the engine (often after an upgrade)Possible
- Mechanical locking: piston (definition) tooth ripped, cut-off lift (definition), anti-return ratchetPossible
- Used motor (coals, magnets)Rare
Verifications
In the order: we start with what does not require anything to disassemble. Check as you go, the list is kept in this browser.
An energized engine heats up in seconds and burns the release contacts. Unplug the battery before looking.
Without toolsCautionIf the replica goes back, the first battery had enough power. Switch to 11.1 V only if the replica supports it (MOSFET (definition), adapted engine).
Without toolsAdjusting screws under the handle, by small notches, pulling at once: we look for the sharpest and most sharp sound. A squeezing indicates an unginned sprocket.
Simple toolsTools: Allen keysA blocked gearbox often keeps its compressed spring: open it thus projects the pieces. Charger removed, replica pointed to the ground, release the non-return click by the intended opening (on a V2) with a fine screwdriver, hands out of the gear path.
DismantlingCautionTools: Precision screwdriverGearbox open: a tooth torn from the piston or sector blocks the cycle. Replace the plunger, and examine the other gears that may have suffered shock.
DismantlingTools: Precision screwdriver
Stop
Stop and hand over the reply to a technician if:
- You have to open the Gearbox and you have never done so: springs under tension, holds to be restored in order
- Several gears are damaged: a complete game is often safer